175 Stoke Newington High Street, Stoke Newington, London N16 0LH Wandering up the eclectic Stoke Newington High Street I was accosted by a free art gallery, a farmers’ market, and a car boot sale, I visited all three. Stokey in a nutshell? All on-route to The Three Crowns for a gratifying lunch in a historic setting. Dating back to the ...
‘Stuck in the middle and confused’ Dining in the capital can be tricky – the heady amalgam of capitalist greed and stylish affectation. The ever-present fusion, more at home in a neutron star than at a dinner table, progresses from intriguing to gimmicky to downright dreadful. The press launch of Bavarian brewery chain Kraft’s third outpost was the culinary equivalent ...
288 Cambridge Heath Rd, Cambridge Heath, London E2 9DA ‘A temple of careful, conscious and creative eating’ The world is on fire, the times are a-changing and amongst this madness, I am doing a re-review. But nothing is repetitive when it comes to Sarah and Rich and their crusade for sustainable and surprising pizza. It’s certainly a flaming torch I ...
499 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AU The most varied of the noodle family, bathed in alkalized water for a softer effect and stewed in a pool of umami-infused goodness. With the fall of the Meiji era in Japan, the introduction of Chinese noodles revolutionised Japanese cooking. Now this dish: Ramen, already an amalgamation of cultures takes on another ambitious leap in the ...
Islington Green, ‘Bubbling atmosphere but a lack of Italian flair’ Pasta. Divine companion of the modern city gal or an overrated carbohydrate out to make you fat, bored, and disillusioned at the dinner table? Chef Louis Korovilas’s new venture, Noci, “experimentally” puts pasta centre stage, so it’s shame that it turns out not to be incredibly talkative. Replacing Côte Brasserie ...
‘Petite but perfectly formed offering’ A literal and metaphoric hidden gem, Fin and Lorcan Spiteri’s new venture is a sensation for those in the know. After a leisurely wander along the Regent’s Canal trying to find the place, we are guided by Ella the local cat along a bobbing pontoon to Rose the boat. The culinary fairytale begins here. Saying ...
Christmas Is dead, you’re back home, trousers a little tighter, wallet a little lighter, eyes filled with resolutions shinning a little brighter. But why should the real joys of Christmas (the food) be ditched come the new year? Hearing from my editor that a burger pop-up is offering a full roast on Sundays my blood levels began to rise. But I ...
‘Soul-warming gem’ More than 2000 years’ worth of of human steps have bustled along the Roman Road. With olive oil coming from Greece and amphorae of wine from Pompeii, this street is certainly no stranger to new cuisines. Now up pops an homage to the American deep south, named after one of its fieriest products.It is as if one has tumbled ...
‘The right food for the right occasion’ Queen’s Yard is hung with festoons of fairy lights, quietly buzzing on a Tuesday night. Popping up in the cool Howling Hops Brewery, Colombia comes to Hackney Wick. Stepping into the cavernous space, relaxed hip-hop caresses your ears. The pub is more industrial squat than Wetherspoons, with massive silver tanks lining one wall. ...
‘Stylish venue shaking up perceptions of vegan fare’ Floating on the first floor of the Leman Locke Hotel in Aldgate East is the new enfant terrible of the vegan food scene. Alter perches on the corner of the glass monstrosity, like a little bat filled with herbivorous delights. We arrive like two drowned rats. The lift spirits us up and as the ...