‘Bubbling atmosphere but a lack of Italian flair’ Pasta. Divine companion of the modern city gal or an overrated carbohydrate out to make you fat, bored, and disillusioned at the dinner table? Chef Louis Korovilas’s new venture, Noci, “experimentally” puts pasta centre stage, so it’s shame that it turns out not to be incredibly talkative. Replacing Côte Brasserie on the ...