“Dive deep for culinary pearls”
I always forget that around the edge of the now skyscraper-filled Roman city, normality thrives. Wander down a slightly murdery Chambers Street and the gleaming glass transmutes into Indian restaurants, phone shops and a Victorian pub-The Brown Bear sitting not far from the famous bear-baiting pits of the 17th century.
Nowadays the entertainment is less bloody, with four TV screens blaring sport and David Bowie and Cher Lloyd blasting from the sound system. There’s dark wood and some nice frosted glasswork, but it’s not the sort of place where you’d expect to stumble upon exceptional Thai food-more a Scotch egg and a pint of London Pride.
But sometimes you must dive deep for culinary pearls. Chef (his chosen English name) opened the pop-up (meaning divine flavour in Thai) on the first of this very month and is trying to bring Thai drinking culture to the UK. I question whether we need more alcohol-based customs, but the difference in booze styles is a constant stream of little dishes tossed in vibrant, zingy spices and washed down with cold beer. Well, if I must.
Icy brewskis are ordered, and up come the dishes in the dumb waiter from the depths of the ancient pub. A city first, Chef’s creation-pork belly yum fried-squares of crispy-rimmed meat in a watery pinkish sauce that has the sour, spicy, sweet and salty dressing that typifies the country’s street food. All arriving on little camp plastic floral plates the fish, lime, sugar and chilli blend soaks into the belly slices most pleasingly. Equally, the chicken zapp is tossed in the same yum-y seasoning; these poppers are also fried in a tangy laab-style (more mint and khao khua) dressing that initiates the once-you’ve-popped-you-can’t-stop saying. Medallions of some very good, spongy fish cakes round off the starters, and we sit back deeply impressed and happily surprised. Imagine how good the spring rolls, fried prawns or hat yai chicken pops will be, we wonder-already planning our return.
Mains are more expected but equally agreeable. Chef bemoans his encounters with pad Thai in this country-tamarind replaced by ketchup. I never realised this travesty was happening, but with his version you suddenly become aware of how many tainted examples you must have consumed. It’s sweeter, yet with the added touch of lemon and dates from the spice, big glistening prawns and slabs of encrusted tofu. My drunken noodles taste like you’ve already downed a few-silken they slide down your throat yet kick on the way with basil, chilli and a whole lot of oil.
The pub classics are also accounted for-sandwiches, burgers and fish and chips-but why not let Chef show his glorious colours with his spicy Teparos burger or a chicken poppers sandwich?
There’s no dessert, sadly, as I’d love to see his interpretation of a classic sticky toffee pudding or a jam roly-poly. The food sits a little uncomfortably in the space and could have arrived slightly warmer, but such are the perils of pop-ups. Nothing is over £14.50, and a very generous lunch deal is £9.95. The tastes you get for these paltry sums is staggering-if you’re forced into the city for a merger, or the Tower for treason, or if out-of-town guests are visiting, take them for some astounding Thai food around the corner. Whatever you do however, leave your glad rags at home!